Ládano by D: Sol MMXVI: Delphine Jelk Rewrites Labdanum

I have a soft spot for labdanum and a low tolerance for boredom. Too many resinous ambers either play lumberjack cos-play or Sunday-mass solemn, and I’m over it. Ládano by D: Sol MMXVI made me stop mid-spritz and pay attention. This is labdanum stripped of cliché and lit from within, composed by the sharp eye and steady hand of Delphine Jelk.

On skin, Ládano opens with the chewy, leathery pull I crave from cistus resin, but there’s an unexpected brightness that keeps the resin from collapsing into molasses. Think sun on a dark surface, not a blackout curtain. The amber facet reads warm and honeyed, yet there’s a mineral thread and a bitter-herbal edge that feel almost saline-clean, like rockrose leaves crushed between fingers. Instead of dusting everything in vanilla comfort, it keeps the sweetness on a leash and lets texture do the talking.

What sets it apart is the balance. This is a labdanum perfume that refuses to shout, yet it never goes shapeless or gauzy. On my skin, the resin stays tactile for hours, softening into a faintly smoky, leathery hush that feels intimate but intent. I wore it through a long afternoon of emails and errands and it never turned sticky or sour. It’s the kind of niche fragrance that makes you lean in rather than back away.

If you’ve dismissed labdanum as stuck in amber-blanket mode, Ládano proves the note still has teeth and finesse. And if you already worship the resin, this gives you a new register to enjoy. There’s no gimmick, no sugar crash, no incense bomb. Just confident, beautifully calibrated labdanum that lives up to its name and its creator.

Verdict: the “winner” moniker feels earned. Ládano by D: Sol MMXVI, by Delphine Jelk, is that rare labdanum that stays modern without sacrificing soul. It’s resin with posture, and I’ll be reaching for it the next time I want warmth without the wool blanket.