Cognac On Skin, Not On Ice: My Take On M. Micallef Notorious XO

I spritzed Notorious XO on my wrist before a cold evening walk and, honestly, it felt like slipping into a satin-lined snifter. The opening is unapologetically boozy, but not sloppy. Think grape must and orange peel candied to a gloss, a flash of volatile esters that mimic pear brandy, then a slow tumble into oak shavings and caramelized sugar. It’s intoxicating, but it doesn’t shout. It purrs.

This is M. Micallef in full plush mode, the kind of gourmand-amber that respects both skin and appetite. In the heart I get dried fruits with a prune-plum depth, cinnamon dust, a whisper of tobacco leaf, and that polished, almost lacquered amber the house does so well. A soft leather facet sneaks in, more glove than biker jacket, tying the boozy top to a warm, resinous base of benzoin, tonka and sandalwood.

If you collect cognac-adjacent scents, you’ll ask the obvious question. How does it sit next to the usual suspects? Compared with By Kilian Angel’s Share, Notorious XO is less pastry cart and more cellar key. It’s rounder, silkier, not as spiced, with fewer gourmand crumbs on the table. Against Frapin 1270, it feels denser and more perfumey, swapping 1270’s sunlit fruit for a twilight glow and a touch of leather polish. If you love the smoked sweetness of Maison Margiela Jazz Club or the malty warmth of Mugler A*Men Pure Malt, Notorious XO reads more couture, less club.

Wearability surprised me. Sillage is confident for the first two hours, then it tucks closer, like the last pour before lights out. Longevity lands in the 8 to 10 hour zone on my skin. It’s perfect for cold weather, night or late afternoon, and yes, delightfully genderless. I wore it with a scarlet lip and a black blazer and felt like the kind of person who keeps secrets and spare matches.

Provocation time. Cognac perfumes often collapse into dessert. Notorious XO keeps its backbone. It’s decadent, sure, but not sticky. If your bar cart is already stocked with boozy greats like By Kilian Apple Brandy on the Rocks, this one earns a seat by offering a richer wood-and-resin finish. If you’ve been waiting for a cognac fragrance that smells like confidence instead of confection, this is your pour.