Pitti Fragranze 2025: The Scents I Kept Sneaking Back To

I walked into Pitti Fragranze 2025 fully caffeinated and mildly dangerous, ready to dodge the safe florals. The halls were packed with buyers from over 50 countries, more than 250 brands showing their feathers. Plenty of pretty. Not enough pulse. So I followed the trail of trouble.

Iris was having a quiet uprising. Masque Milano L'Attesa felt like silk-lined gloves, buttered orris with a champagne fizz that never went cloying. Across the aisle, Naomi Goodsir Iris Cendre played the ash note the way a jazz singer leans on a blue note. If you think iris is powdery and polite, these two will rewire your brain.

Leather had teeth. Francesca Bianchi The Lover's Tale still walks the tightrope between intimacy and danger, all sueded lip and animalic breath. Bogue Maai reminded me why certain cults have loyalists, church bells and skin heat braided together.

Green is alive again. Hiram Green Shangri La served ripe peach in a chypre corset that doesn’t apologize. For incense lovers, Tauer L'Air du Desert Marocain kept people hovering around the stand like moths to a mirage, cumin and amber glowing without collapsing into syrup.

The refined romantics were not sleeping. Dusita Splendiris wore its violet and iris like taffeta in daylight, airy yet emotionally loaded. Heritage still hits when it is honest, and Santa Maria Novella Melograno hummed with that clean, waxed-wood intimacy that only old Italian walls understand.

Modern minerals and space-metal vibes had a line. Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede sliced through the room with that saline suede I can pick blindfolded. For vanilla that doesn’t flirt then ghost, Nishane Ani stayed bright and tart, a lemon-zested hug.

Oddities that made me grin. Etat Libre d'Orange Secretions Magnifiques remains the dare, and yes, I watched a buyer blanch. Beaufort London Fathom V is still oceanic in the way of storms, not spa water.

Under-the-radar that deserve a spray on skin:

• Laboratorio Olfattivo Nerotic for gothic amber that feels tailored
• Olfactive Studio Flash Back for rhubarb sparkle and clean lines
• Peccato Originale for smart Italian storytelling in a bottle

If you are sketching a 2025 sample list, start here. Not the loudest booths, but the ones that smelled like decisions. I left with my wrists arguing. That is the point.